Something for everybody... from Archeological Buffs to
Surfers and Beach Bums..travelling alone, in pairs or
group, on any budget ranging from:
Backpacker to
Billionaire .......


360 Virtual Reality Panorama of El Salvador
www.elsalvador360 com/index. html (English)

 

{The writer,Donald Lee  is a long term resident ex pat from up north, USA, who
makes his home in El Salvador & Guatemala for many years during
 good times and bad.}

More and more...folks are beginning to discover the beauty, charm and friendly people of El Salvador...

Central Americas Hidden Gem

EL SALVADOR...

DISCOVER THE UNDISCOVERED CENTRAL AMERICA AN EXOTIC
AND SUPRISE DESTINATION.......

The following suggestions are put together for anyone
traveling to El Salvador, whether it be to visit
friends or relatives, for business or just for a brief visit


How to Pack: El Salvador is hot and humid any time of

the year. Rainy season begins usually at the beginning
of May and runs through October, so plan accordingly.
Bring light weight clothing, but appropriate clothing.

In some rural areas it is still inappropriate for
women to wear pants and especially shorts so be sure
to pack some skirts, sisters, just in case! You'll now
view more and more bikinis sported on El Salvadors
public beaches as in the resort areas of Costa Rica
and Mexico. Things are slowly but surely changing.
Good shoes.... Please bring comfortable shoes. Even if
you hire a driver or tour operator to transport you or
rent a car in El Salvador some hiking and walking will
be required to explore off the beaten path, and it
wont always be down paved sidewalks, more often
mountain trails, so bring some good, sturdy and
comfortable hiking shoes. Leave all your valuables you
will not need at home. No flashy jewelry, no fancy
watches, nothing that will make you stand out in the
humble villages you are bound to visit. Remember, the
contents of your luggage could contain more than a
humble person may possess in a lifetime.
Travelling around: In the modern cities of San
Salvador and San Miguel, Santa Ana and Sonsonate the
visitor shall encounter the modern style
"MetroCentro" malls boasting everything from
supermarkets to tattoo parlors where the young imitate
dress and styles up north, chatting endlessly on the
cellular phones! ATM machines and Banks are located in
the modern shopping centers and accept most all
international credit and debit cards, paying out in
USD, the currency of legal tender in El Salvador since
2000. The shopping malls have their own private guard
services avoid using ATMs located on the street or
outside banks when alone, especially at night. When
travelling to to beach or countryside bring only as
much cash as you feel youll need for
meals and small
purchases, some of the larger coastal restaurants and
all of the larger guest houses, B &
B-s and beach and
mountain resort hotels accept credit and/or
international debit cards. For large purchases in the
city, use credit card. Never flash a lot of cash, nor
leave valuables unattended in a parked vehicle unless
locked securely in the trunk out of sight.
Never discuss your travel itinerary with overly
friendly strangers nor divulge in public where you are
lodging.  -------

Getting There: There are several flights daily into
San Salvador from the Stateside Gateways of Los
Angeles,
Dallas, Houston, Atlanta, New York, and Miami (as well
as from Montreal and Toronto and other Central and
South American cities, Flights direct from Europe into
Cancun & Mexico City, Guatemala and Honduras

Shop around and start early and you may
actually find a good deal.

American and Canadian Citizens no longer need to
purchase a $10.00 tourist card when they arrive in El Salvador.
Stay given is 90 days, and that includes immigration
for 3 other nations of the CA-4 (Central American 4
countries): Guatemala, Honduras and Nicaragua, after
that the visitor must exit to either Belize, Mexico or
Costa Rica and return after 72 hours for another 90
days, if planning to work or volunteer check with your
employer or non profit organization regarding
assistance with obtaining a 1 year work permit or
volunteer visa.

 
The airport departure tax leaving El Salvador is
generally $27.00-$34.00USD cash, check with your
airline. (if not included in the price of your ticket).
 Remember that  El Salvador's Comalapa International Airport is located
near the coast, actually 45 kms. or 28 miles due south from the
capital city of San Salvador (about a 45 minute drive to the capital).

So, those planning beach, coastal, surfing and watersports vacations in
 El Salvador will be delighted to hear that resorts
hotels and surf camps on the Pacific Coast are all accessible,
often less than a 30/40 minute drive, from the airport by the
Carretera  Litoral..Coastal Highway CA2, no need to drive into
or through the congested capital city of San Salvador  AT ALL.


*International Buses
When travelling by first class or luxury bus services to and
 from either Guatemala, Honduras or Nicaragua/Costa
Rica/Panama (King Quality Lines, Pulmantur, TransNica
and Tica Buses), except for Tica Buses downtown Centro San
Salvador terminal, the international bus terminals are
located at San Salvadors modern and secure Puerto
Bus terminal, or terminals, including Tica Bus, in
the upscale Colonia San Benito, located near
many of the 3, 4 and 5 star luxury hotels.
 


*Where to Stay in San Salvador to suit any travelers
budget:

 There are several unique places to stay in and around
San Salvador. Business and Upscale Travel: If you are a business
person looking for first class hotels with world
business class service try the Hotel Princess, El
Presidente, Raddisson, or Holiday Inn located in the
upscale San Benito, Escalón and Santa Elena
neighborhoods of Metro San Salvador. Also some
excellent 3 star hotels such as the Hotel-Casino
Siesta offering discounts with advance
reservations.. if you wish, contact me well in advance
of your arrival, I am able to assist
you to contact some excellent 2, 3 and 4/5 star
lodging places in El Salvador.
Reserve ahead and save a bundle off the rack rate!
The majority of the upscale 3 Star B & B's and Guest Houses and the
4/5 Star hotels are located in or near the Zona Rosa and Colonia Escalon,
upscale areas with expensive boutiques and restaurants..
It is quiet and very safe in the surrounding areas by
day. The Holiday Inn is the newest large hotel in San
Salvador. It is in the neighborhood of Santa Elena,
just 3 blocks away from the U.S. Embassy. It is at the
edge of town and will allow you to leave San Salvador
for the western part of the country without having to
fight the traffic of the capital city. Prices in these
hotels range from $65-$100+ per night rack rate
depending on how many occupants you will be traveling
with. Book ahead.

Budget and Independent Travel: No doubt, if you are
an independent traveler on a tight budget, you are looking for something
nice but less ritzy, try one of the many unique
lodging places, bed and breakfasts and guest houses
in and around San Salvador. They
have private rooms and bathrooms, but are not as large
as the hotels, generally with less than 15 rooms.
Prices, double occupancy for the bed and
breakfasts/guest houses range
 from $20-$75 maximum per night double or triple
occupancy.

*Cheaper accomodations
can be easily found at some of the smaller hotels
closer into town, go East young man,  in and around the National
University area, which
boasts a thriving Bohemian style night life. Most of
these small hotels and guest houses offer excellent
basic services for travellers, especially those
who wish to mix and socialize with natives and other
travellers and of course, do not mind taking a cold
shower in the early morning! Prices range from $6.00
per person in dorm rooms to $20.00-$25.00 double in
some small guest houses offering breakfast, cable tv
and hot water! Check the ads for budget to luxury
lodgings, surfing camps and things to do in the
country on line in pdf format on The El Salvador
section of the Guatemala Revue Magazine click on to:
http://www.revuemag.com/

 

Home stay or long term furnished
room or small apartment rentals from $80 month upwards.

Home stay
with native families in Indigenous Studies (Nahuat)
and Spanish Language programs is also recommended and
arrangements may be made with the school or your
private instructor, weekly or monthly basis

Getting Around: Transport - Public Transportation The
buses in El Salvador are a thrill for those who have
never experienced the guanaco mode of transport. If
you enjoy a thrill, feel free to use the public bus
system on your free time to get around. It can be slow
at times, but it is extremely cheap. Even if you
choose not to use the public transportation, you
should take one bus ride just for the experience.
There is nothing quite like it... believe it!
Many of the
organized tours for travelers conducted by first class tour operators
 are in insured vehicles
with driver for your comfort and safety..Many small and medium sized
 operators drive uninsured..so be sure and ask before going on a cheap tour!

 Authorized Taxis (yellow) within the city of San Salvador are
reliable. Do not walk alone nor take public transport
after 8PM within San Salvador unless you are familiar
with the area and route. Simply flag a taxi down on
the street if you require to and determine the price
to your destination before you get in the cab. There
are also dispatch services that you can call from your
lodging place and have pick you up. Most dispatch
drivers have their own cell phones and you are able to
contact them later for pick up. Try to avoid the
taxistas at the luxury hotels, unless you are able
to negotiate in Spanish, or if not, try and have a
local negotiate price for you in advance if possible.
For visitors in San Salvador there are safe and sound city
nightlife trips if desired: casas de arte, gallery
showings, theatres, bars and restaurants with either a
Salvadorian or international flavor.

In the countryside (small towns) throughout rural El Salvador there exists
little night life but the life, with El
Salvadorian native guides or friends introducing you
to the culture, cuisine and customs.
 


*Rental Cars:

 If taking certain
specialized archaeological and ecological trips it may
be necessary for your group to rent a 4WD vehicle,  advise hiringone
of several qualified native guides is able to conduct
you if desired. Remember that rental car companies in
Central America offer you two insurance options: 1.
Basic: with a $1,000 to $1,200 deductible on your
Credit Card at approx. $17 per day up insurance
charges or 2. Full insurance, including all collision
damages, fire and theft at approx. $60 per day
insurance charges for a 4WD, if venturing
to remote areas with rough terrain then choose full
insurance, a friend recently did so in
Nicaragua and saved $1,200! Again, economic car, approx.
$40-$55 for a four door sedan, $75-$100 for a large
pickup or SUV. All these prices include insurance and
13% sales tax (IVA). Always leave your rental car in guarded parking
 areas with security overninght, never parked on the street, even if
 locals tell you it is ok!

What to see and do: There are a few
things you should not miss while you are in El Salvador.
Here are a few activities that you could do
Either on your own or with a guide.
For those independent travelers wishing to take
public transport to all of their destinations while
visiting El Salvador, be advised to leave the bulk of
your luggage, passport and valuables at hotel or
friends home. If going far leave early in the
morning, most buses are running by 5AM. Buses are
generally crowded, especially after 3PM and on
weekends, there is excellent service on main bus
routes such as San Salvador to Santa Ana (Ruta 201),
San Salvador to San Miguel (Ruta 301) and San Salvador
to Puerto Libertad (Ruta 102), however to more remote
areas and smaller towns bus service can be sparse, in
areas where there exists little or no public
transport, you may need to hitchhike a ride on a pick
up truck, giving driver a tip at arrival. Many of
these pick ups often act as public transport for
locals anyway.

Cerro Verde and Lake Coatepeque: These two
destinations are beautiful, close to each other and
not to be missed.
Cerro Verde National Park: a lush verdant park on a
summit soaring above the lake with the famous view of
Izalcos Volcano and its still smoking cone. The
lodge, where you may stay overnight, with volcano or
lake view rooms, is run by the national tourist
commission, reservations required for nationals.
Visitors, Obtain your permits to enter the park by showing your passport at the gate.

Nearby volcanic Coatepeque Lake  is a very scenic day trip,
including boat trips with local fishermen to the small lake
island "Teopan" a nature preserve with private residences, that is a
 holiday and weekend retreat for well to do Salvadorians from the capital city. Most
 of the island is a nature preserve and hiking on the trails
is allowed, thousands of Monarch Butterflies in mating
season and a bird sanctuary. Lake Coatepeque is a
volcanic crater lake and there are two resort hotels and
several restaurants offering unique lake cuisine along the shore road,
 narrow and bumpy.

Montecristo Cloud Forest: This is one of the most
beautiful hikes in all of Central America from the
summit, which is reached by 4WD, coaster or minibus
(standard vehicle not recommended) by winding dirt
road 23Km. above the town of Metapan, located 35 Km.
north of Santa Ana, near the Guatemalan frontier, a
1.5 hour drive from San Salvador. One of the few
remaining cloud forests in Central America,
Montecristo winds to the top where Guatemala,
Honduras, and El Salvador are all visible from the
Atlantic to the Pacific. Orchid Gardens near to the
Camping grounds.tour operators provide camping and
equipment on all organized tours for those able to
hike & climb, others may opt for nearby country hotels to spend the
night. ..The park is administered by an NGO from the European Union.

*Life is a Beach!
Ocean Highway - Calle Litoral from La Libertad to
Acajutla This coastal highway runs along the ocean
front for seventy or eighty kilometers. It is a
beautiful drive that winds along the hills and through
a set of five tunnels. Take time to snap some photos
and have lunch in La Libertad or Sonsonate. If you are
eating in La Libertad try La Curva one of the nicer
oceanside restaurants with a great view and wonderful
food. Acajutla is a thriving port city and the nearby
Los Cobanos Beach offers the adventure traveller deep
sea fishing and diving excursions. For more detailed
information on El Salvador's coastal desinations,
unique lodging places and resorts contact the writer.
At present, exists the Decameron all inclusive
resort, in Salinitas,
located in Western El Salvador near Los Cobanos Beach,
where local dive operators offers the visitor lake and sea
PADI diving lessons,
moderate lodgings and deep sea fishing charters
arranged in season, no surfing here.
there exist several new beach hotels and
resorts very close to to the International Airport
under operation and several more new unique lodging
places including Surfing lodges along the coast, and El Salvador's
 famed Costa del Sol, with calmer currents and white sandy beaches.

Tourism in the colonial and crafts villages and in the rural countryside is increasing

Ruta de Las Flores - Carreterra from Sonsonate to
Ahuachapan Stop off in Nahuizalco and buy a few wicker
souvenirs. The nahuizalqueños set up their shops right
along the highway, but if you have time, go into the
small town and visit some of the shops. The
handicrafts are worth a few minutes of your time as is
the market. Drive through Salcoatitan and take the
detour into Juayua. If you are driving through on a
weekend, they often have a market with traditional
dishes set up around the central plaza. These are
generally very clean and safe to eat. After Juayua
visit Apaneca where you can have a bite to eat at the
Cabañas de Apaneca and take in the view of the coffee
fields and surrounding mountains. Continue to escape
the heat by passing through Ataco on your way down to
Ahuachapan. Chorros de Juayua: The Chorros de Juayua
are a set of waterfalls outside of the town of Juayua.
The hike down is not difficult, but the path is not
easy to traverse. It is definitely worth it, though.
The secenery around the waterfalls is beautiful and
the hike down is also very scenic. **If a single or a
couple alone..Ask the local police in Juayua if they
would be willing to provide an escort as local thieves
occassionally hide out along the trail. If you do
encounter a thief, however, simply give him some money
and be on your way. They are usually local teens that
do not intend to harm anyone, but are looking for an
easy buck. If you are the type who would rather be
safe than sorry.

The El Salvadorian National
Tourist Police are also able, on advance notice only
through a registered local tour operator, to escort
small groups on day tours, including eco tours, anywhere within El
Salvador if you give them about two weeks notice,
there is no charge, however tipping is expected.
Police and locals are very helpful to tourists, and if driving a
rental car and are stopped at a National Police
transit checkpoint, show your license and car
papers and you'll be on your way, never drink and
drive as at home and avoid driving outside cities and towns at night.

Mayan Ruins: San Andres and Joyas de Cerén San Andres
and Joyas de Cerén are two Mayan ruin sites. San
Andres has a new museum that is excellent and offers
free tours before examining the pyramids. At San Andrés,
ancient Mayan peoples had erected an acropolis
consisting of a stair-stepped temple and other
structures. The latest excavations have found more
remnants of the Mayan civilization as archeologists
tunnel into the site.

 If you have seen the majestic temple ruins in Copan, Mexico or
Guatemala, don't expect much in "size" from these
ruins, but more in "quality" In El Salvador are native
guides who are experts in every aspect of the Maya-Pipil culture..

*(El Salvador's Mayan World). Joya de Cerén is the
only "non royal" Mayan site existing in MesoAmerica,
an ordinary village buried under volcanic ash some
1400 years ago after an eruption of the nearby
volcano, Joya de Cerén is referred to as the "Pompeii
of the Americas". It is a very interesting site for
academics and a "must see" for visitors who wish to
understand fully El Salvadors pre-Hispanic culture! with some
displays explaining what has been unearthed, but is
not completely finished yet. Well worth the effort is
a visit to Cihuatan, a ruins north of San Salvador,
still under excavation, called "The City of Women"..
Santa Ana: Cathedral and Theater in the Central Plaza
of Santa Ana The catedral in Santa Ana is famous
throughout El Salvador for its classic gothic design.
Be prepared for the pigeons and local photographers
trying to snap your photo and sell you a picture. The
theater on the other side of the park is a rare work
of art in El Salvador. They are attempting to restore
it, and it seems very "out of place" for Santa Ana
with its classic design and architecture. There is a
nominal fee (less than 50¢) to get in, but it is an
interesting stop if you are in Santa Ana.

Suchitoto:
Narrow Cobbled Stone Streets and Adobe Houses...
Time definitely seems to have stopped in the city of
Suchitoto, one of the countrys most visited cities in
the Northern part of the country. Suchitoto is located
in the department of Cuscatlán and is situated 47
kilometers from the capital city of San Salvador. This
equates to about a one hour drive.
Suchitoto, which in the native Nahuatl tongue means
"City of the Flower Bird", literally became a ghost
town in the period of the country's civil war, which
lasted from 1980 - 1992. The constant cascade of bombs
and battles near the extinct volcano of Guazapa forced
most of its inhabitants to abandon the city. Yet it
was this migration that helped the city to preserve
its unique architecture. While visiting Suchitoto,
you shall experience that magic calm of the old days,
with narrow cobbled stone streets and adobe houses
with balconies.
 
For more detailed information on enjoying, lodging or
touring Suchitoto view: http://gaesuchito.com/
 
in English & Spanish, the Webmaster is a Salvadorian-American residing
in Suchitoto. Any contributions such as travel
information or bloqs for the site to promote Suchitoto
and El Salvador are welcome in either English or Spanish.


*Guatemala, just over the border: In the travel
destination of Antigua you will be able to find a
variety of
native guides, hotels and lodging places, tour
operators and transportation companies to escort you
anywhere in Guatemala, only 4.5 hours by vehicle or
first class bus from San Salvador, El Salvador view
 
Antigua, where many
travellers choose to base, is located only 45 minutes
southwest of the capital, Guatemala City (42 Km.) by
paved divided highway. For budget travellers buses to Antigua leave
Zona (Zone)3 in Guatemala city every 10-15 minutes
during the day. Shuttles to Antigua leave the Airport
daytime hours. Taxi Guatemala City to Antigua is expensive $40-$50USD
equivilant, depending time of day. If arriving late in
teh evening plan to stay overnight in one of the many
Guest Houses and B & B s in Zone 13 near the Guatemala
City Airport...............

SuggestedNo No's:

 Do not plan JUST for a "vacation".
Plan for
AN UNFORGETTABLE CULTURAL AND SPIRITUAL EXPERIENCE!

 Do not bring expensive gifts to give out to beggars or
street children... This sets up false expectations for
other families and travelers when they come to visit
in the area. Many of the people you visit will be
extremely poor, but the best thing to do is not to
give them money, ESPECIALLY STREET CHILDREN, if you
wish to donate, arrange to do so quietly with your
native guide. village leader, aid worker or priest.
Please do not offer anyone promises of visas or work in the
United States, etc... Always respect local culture and
customs, never become argumentative nor critical and
always have your native guide smooth out any disputes
that arise.. Do everything possible to make all your
own arrangements leaving from the United States,
Canada, etc. and not burden others with those little
minute travel details that you should be able to
handle on your own. Invaluable
to bring along with you are the best up to date PRINT
Guidebooks, check search engines for Central America
specific guidebooks.

For a virtual tour of El Salvador: English or Spanish
http://www.4elsalvador.com/

Some Top El Salvador Attractions:
Joya de Ceren Archaeological Site
San Andres Archaeological Site
Devils Door (Puerta del Diablo)
Arbol de Dios Gallery and Shop , San Salvador
Parque de San Martin Suchitoto
Iglesia Santa Lucia Suchitoto
For more information on the charming colonial
restored town of Suchitoto view:
http://gaesuchitoto.com/
http://www.theotherelsalvador.com/
plus:
Catedral Metropolitana , San Salvador
Lake Coatepeque
El Sunzal Surfing Beach
Montecristo Cloud Forest
El Imposible Nature Reserve
More much, much more..ignore all the bad press and
discover the undiscovered El Salvador!

La Libertad Port..Puerto de La Libertad tourist
complex is now receiving a major facelift,
In and around the Malecon and The Fishing Pier

Security...

keep a low profile and use Common Sense in
El Salvador.   in fact anywhere you travel in Latin America

... happy to be of assistance, message the writer for
more
detailed information.. E mail  centralamericatraveltips AT yahoo

Donald Lee...El Salvador/Guatemala Resident since 1986.


Related articles:
Source:
http://www.ink- publishing. com/cnn/2007/
07/01/bullet- the-blue- sky/
 
"The Tourism Potential
of El Salvador "
El Salvador's potential as a tourist destination was
recently highlighted favorably in an article in CNN Traveler:
El Salvador's natural environment could, however, prove
to be its ultimate economic saviour. And with good
reason - its picturepostcard landscapes and valleys
contain 25 soaring volcanoes, 321km of largely
undeveloped coast line including some of the regions
best surfing beaches, Mayan ruins, inland lakes,
colonial towns and colourful indigenous artesanía handicrafts.
To garner tourism investment, the Arena government of
president Antonio Saca presented its National Tourism
Plan in 2006, aiming to attract two million visitors
per year by 2014. A new Ministry of Tourism was
created and corporate support sought; Credomatic and
American Express are both contributing to the tourism
strategy. In April, tourism minister Ruben Rochi
visited Qatar and Dubai in search of funding, and
secured a deal to air a promotional tourism video on
Al Jazeera. TV advertising campaigns are also planned
for both CNN and ESPN, and the government is currently
lobbying to have the Jiquilisco Bay - which counts 514
animal species, including 87 types of birds -
registered as a Unesco Biosphere Reserve
El Salvadors dawning era of tourism will partly focus
on the cluster of hitherto undeveloped beaches near
Puerto La Libertad, an hour's drive from San Salvador.
A new sea-front tourism park is being constructed in
the small port town. A few kilometres west, electric
saws and jackhammers fill the air at El Sunzal beach,
a world-class surfing location that attracts wave
riders from all over the world.
Those who are not at El Sunzal to challenge the surf
are, it seems, building hotels. The new Roca Sunzal
rents its comfortable rooms for $50. Among its many
neighbours are the smart Roots surf camp and the
once-solitary El Tubo Surfers Inn. When I was here
seven years ago, the sea-front La Bocana café was the
only place to eat. Today, a mini neighbourhood of
restaurants, bars and surf shops has emerged, along
with a cyber café and a Tourism Police office.
Gazing at the palm-fringed, volcanic black sand beach,
frothing white surf and clear blue sky, there is a
real sense of potential. 

 
"After years of civil war, natural disasters and
political unrest, El Salvador is proving there is more
to the country than coffee.

Gary Bowerman reports
The view of the picturesque Ruta de la Paz (Peace
Route) is somewhat obscured. Winding up into the
lushly forested highlands of northeast El Salvador
 from the town of San Francisco Gotera, I am one of 26
people crammed into the back of a pick-up truck,
covered by a blue tarpaulin. As the breathless vehicle
heaves itself forward, a young girl in a stained
tangerine dress offers an unripe mango. Two
Stetson-wearing elderly men carrying tasselled leather
sheaths encasing knives the length of baseball bats
discuss decapitating an angry snake in neighbouring
Honduras.
Wedged in the centre of the truck, catching glimpses
of mountain-side coffee plantations and breathe in the
drifting fragrance of pine trees. During one stop
along the way, the colours of El Salvador's two main
political parties loom into view - red, white and blue
for the ruling right-wing Arena (National Republican
Alliance) party and red and white for the left-wing
FMLN (Farabundo Martí National Liberation Front, named
after Agustin Farabundo Martí, leader of El Salvador's
1932 popular uprising, for which he was executed by
the military government). This is a heavily sloganised
nation, with political messages decorating virtually
every telegraph pole and street light, as well as
houses, trees and bridges.
The Peace Route was named following El Salvador's
brutal 12-year civil war, which ended in 1992. The
history of conflict in this tiny country nicknamed El
Pulgarcito (the Little Thumb) can be traced back to
the arrival of Spanish conquistadores in 1524. The
fertile volcanic soil and shaded hillsides were once
home to the Pipil Indians, but would later prove
profitable for a coterie of land owners, known as the
'14 Families,' who cashed in on global demand for the
local crop: coffee. As the nation's agricultural
wealth became concentrated in the hands of a
repressive few, unrest was inevitable
Decades of 20th-century disorder culminated in a
polarising wave of revolutionary turmoil and military
violence during the 1970s. The assassination of
Archbishop Oscar Romero - during a mass at a hospital
in the capital San Salvador in March 1980 - was the
final catalyst. His liberation theology movement
represented El Salvador's voiceless peasant majority.
The nation quickly descended into bloody civil war,
with right-wing death squads terrorising rural
communities and both the army and the guerrillas
accused of massacres, torture and violence.
The undulating valleys and coffee-growing hills of the
Morazán department experienced some of the fiercest
conflict between the (The Salvadoran army and the
revolutionary left-wing FMLN guerrillas.) After the
signing of peace accords in January 1992, Morazán
symbolised the struggle to establish peace, democracy
and security in a shattered nation shorn of at least
70,000 lives.
Today, the heartbeat of Morazán's Peace Route is
Perquin. A laid-back mountain town of around 800
people, it was the FMLN's stronghold and base for its
broadcasting station, Radio Venceremos. Tourists now
visit the Museum of the Revolution here. Founded in a
small adobe house in 1991, it traces the roots of a
war that still defines El Salvador - domestically and
globally. Oliver Stone's 1986 movie Salvador and, more
recently, Luis Mandoki's Voces Inocentes brought a
nation's suffering to the big screen, while U2's 1987
song 'Bullet the Blue Sky' set it to music
Covering every wall of the museum, black-and-white
photographs tell stories about life in the guerrilla
camps. Glass cabinets display blood-stained uniforms,
rifles, field radios, helmets and bullets. A separate
room exhibits propaganda posters from
pro-revolutionary support groups in Germany, Ireland
and Canada. One depicts a conical volcano erupting
like a champagne bottle, watched by celebrating FMLN
solders. Outside, a crater gouged by a 500lb bomb is
surrounded by a display of government and rebel
anti-aircraft guns and mortar launchers imported from
the States, Russia, China and
Israel. The charred remains of fighter planes grounded
by rebel gunners sit shaded under a tree canopy.
After leaving the museum, I follow the aroma of
roasting coffee beans to the Casa de la Abuela café,
where am served by the genial abuela (grandmother)
herself, Alba Gladis Villalobos. Born in El Salvador's
third-largest city, San Miguel, she became a
spokesperson for the Committee of Mothers of Political
Prisoners, Disappeared and Assassinated (Comadre)
after one of her three children was killed during the
war.
In 1990, the family fled to England, where she gave
speeches about the war situation in her home nation
while her offspring studied at London universities.
Villalobos returned to Perquin in 1993. 'There is a
terrible history of conflict in this part of the
country,' she says. 'I know, I lost a son. But it is
peaceful now, and we don't have the same problems with
guns and gang violence like in the cities.'
 
Nature has also conspired against El Salvador. The war
was followed by a devastating series of hurricanes and
floods during the late 1990s and two strong
earthquakes that took place in December 1999 and
January 2000. The effects of man-made violence and
natural disaster mean that around two million
Salvadorans now live in the States. The exodus
continues; the University of Central America estimates
that around 450 Salvadorans emigrate, legally or
otherwise, each day. Locals joke that El Salvador
produces two exports: coffee and immigrants.
El Salvador's natural environment could, however,
prove to be its ultimate economic savior. And with
good reason - its picture postcard landscapes and
valleys contain 25 soaring volcanoes, 321km of largely
undeveloped coast line including some of the region's
best surfing beaches, Mayan ruins, inland lakes,
colonial towns and colourful indigenous artesanía
handicrafts. "

Le esperamos.